> For the complete documentation index, see [llms.txt](https://wiki.polymaker.com/llms.txt). Markdown versions of documentation pages are available by appending `.md` to page URLs; this page is available as [Markdown](https://wiki.polymaker.com/printing-tips/post-processing/annealing/annealing-tips.md).

# Annealing Tips

Annealing can improve part strength, heat resistance, and dimensional stability, but success depends heavily on part geometry and temperature control. Thin-walled prints are much more vulnerable to warping, softening, and deformation, while thicker prints are generally less susceptible because they have more thermal mass and structural rigidity.

### Heating equipment <a href="#heating-equipment" id="heating-equipment"></a>

Use a heating oven with even temperature distribution whenever possible, ideally a forced-air drying oven. Kitchen ovens are not the best option because they can create hot spots, especially near the heating elements, which may over-soften one side of the part.

Preheat the oven to the target material temperature before placing the part inside. Do not use gradual heating for this process, because starting in a cold oven increases the chance of uneven softening and distortion.

Water bath or oil bath annealing is also possible, but the part should be kept away from the bottom wall or any direct contact points that could create local overheating and softening.

### Thin wall parts <a href="#thin-wall-parts" id="thin-wall-parts"></a>

Thin-walled prints need the most care because they can deform quickly when heat is applied unevenly. For these parts, controlling the setup and supporting the geometry matters more than it does for thick, solid prints.

Options that help thin walls include:

* Keeping the part attached to the build plate during annealing, if the build plate fits inside the oven.
* Placing the build plate at the bottom and keeping the printed part facing upward.
* Leaving supports attached during annealing when possible, since they can help preserve the shape.

These methods help reduce warping by giving the print more stability while it softens. Thicker prints usually tolerate annealing better because they are less prone to shape loss and have more material to resist deformation.

**HT-PLA Pro notes:** While you can certainly anneal your HT-PLA Pro samples via annealing - you have to be very cautious to avoid warping/deformation.  Follow the above guidelines, or even better, a sand or salt anneal. &#x20;

### Sand or salt support <a href="#sand-or-salt-support" id="sand-or-salt-support"></a>

A sand or salt annealing process can help support the part during heating and reduce deformation. The idea is to surround the print with a supportive medium so the shape is better preserved while the material is at temperature.

This approach is especially useful for thin-walled or delicate parts that would otherwise sag, twist, or shift during annealing. It is a practical option when you want more control over geometry than a bare oven setup can provide.

### General handling <a href="#general-handling" id="general-handling"></a>

If possible, anneal the print with the supports and build plate still attached, since that can help maintain the original form. This is especially useful for parts with tall features, thin walls, or asymmetrical geometry.

After annealing, let the part cool naturally rather than forcing a rapid cooldown. Sudden cooling can reintroduce stress and increase the chance of distortion.

### Practical note <a href="#practical-note" id="practical-note"></a>

Annealing is less forgiving for thin walls and detailed parts, so test pieces are a good idea before running a final print. Heavier, thicker parts are more stable and usually do not require as many shape-preserving precautions.


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