We will not be making any Fiberon 1KG spools in the near future due to the fact that carbon fiber blends are more brittle on the spool and difficult to wind tightly. This means the core on the spool is larger and 1KG of filament will not fit on a 1KG spool.

Yes -we definitely recommend printing with a hotend that can reach at least 310˚C. It might be possible to print at 300˚C, but you will need to print very slowly and you run the risk of having reduced layer adhesion.

Yes - PPS-CF is brittle on the spool and can easily be snapped. We recommend a clear filament path to the extruder with not a lot of sharp twists and turns.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Yes -we definitely recommend printing with a hotend that can reach at least 310˚C. It might beWhile the spools will roll fine in the AMS, PPS-CF is very brittle on the spool meaning that if it goes through too tight of twists or turns - it may snap. We recommend not using an AMS and having a direct path to the printer.

There is no UL94 certification for PPS-CF10 at this time.

We’ve set the minimum recommended printing temperature for PPS-CF at 310°C because, although extrusion is possible at 300°C, it can lead to significantly reduced interlayer bonding strength. This would negatively impact the overall performance and user experience.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Annealing significantly improves the heat resistance of PET-CF17, raising its heat deflection temperature (HDT) from around 70°C to over 100°C. However, in terms of mechanical properties, annealing mainly increases the stiffness (modulus) of the material but does not enhance impact resistance or layer adhesion. This means the material does not become tougher after annealing.

If your part has very thin sections - 120°C annealing can cause issue with deformation. In this instance we would give these three potential solutions

1. Gradual heating method. Divide the annealing process into two stages, first keep the temperature at 80-100°C for a period of time, and then slowly heat it to 120°C to avoid rapid heating and internal stress concentration.​

2. Anneal at a lower 100°C for a longer period of time. If annealing is performed at 80-100 degrees, the crystallization rate of PET-CF is very slow and the ideal mechanical properties cannot be achieved. 100°C would be the bare minimum to anneal PET-CF at. Our suggestion would be to try 14 hours though we do not have a strict standard for this at this time.

3. Keep support material on thin sections with large overhangs. You can also use other things such as salt or sand to tightly compact around your print to help prevent deformation.

Yes -we definitely recommend printing with a hotend that can reach at least 310˚C. It might beWhile the spools will roll fine in the AMS, PPS-CF is very brittle on the spool meaning that if it goes through too tight of twists or turns - it may snap. We recommend not using an AMS and having a direct path to the printer.

PET and PETG differ in their chemical structure, properties, printability, and applications. PETG is more flexible, easier to print, and suitable for 3D printing and medical applications, while PET is more durable and suitable for applications requiring thermal resistance.

It is possible to print this without a filament dryer, but that can depend on the environment where you live. If you live in a humid climate - you may need a filament dryer either entire time while printing, or at least between prints. Keep stored dry.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Moisture conditioning refers to allowing the print to absorb moisture. This is inevitble since nylons are hygroscopic, but you can expedite the process by keeping the print in a high humidity climate, or submerging them in water, for 48 hours. All of our test specimens were annealed at 100˚C for 16 hours, and then immerged in water at 60˚C for 48 hours. The average moisture content of specimens is 2.57%.

Read more about moisture conditioning HERE.

IWhen you anneal in a convection oven, you will dry the part out. So if you moisture condition before annealing - you will need to moisture condition again after. So we would suggest to moisture condition after annealing.

Our nylons come with our Warp-Free™ Technology. In order for this Warp-Free™ technology to work as it should - we want to make sure the build plate and the ambient air temperatures are both below 50˚C. We then anneal the print after to get it's full strength.

Learn more HERE

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

Yes, you will need a filament dryer when printing with nylons due to them being hygroscopic.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Moisture conditioning refers to allowing the print to absorb moisture. This is inevitble since nylons are hygroscopic, but you can expedite the process by keeping the print in a high humidity climate, or submerging them in water, for 48 hours. All of our test specimens were annealed at 100˚C for 16 hours, and then immerged in water at 60˚C for 48 hours. The average moisture content of specimens is 2.57%.

Read more about moisture conditioning HERE.

IWhen you anneal in a convection oven, you will dry the part out. So if you moisture condition before annealing - you will need to moisture condition again after. So we would suggest to moisture condition after annealing.

Our nylons come with our Warp-Free™ Technology. In order for this Warp-Free™ technology to work as it should - we want to make sure the build plate and the ambient air temperatures are both below 50˚C. We then anneal the print after to get it's full strength.

Learn more HERE

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

Yes, you will need a filament dryer when printing with nylons due to them being hygroscopic.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Moisture conditioning refers to allowing the print to absorb moisture. This is inevitble since nylons are hygroscopic, but you can expedite the process by keeping the print in a high humidity climate, or submerging them in water, for 48 hours. All of our test specimens were annealed at 100˚C for 16 hours, and then immerged in water at 60˚C for 48 hours. The average moisture content of specimens is 2.57%.

Read more about moisture conditioning HERE.

IWhen you anneal in a convection oven, you will dry the part out. So if you moisture condition before annealing - you will need to moisture condition again after. So we would suggest to moisture condition after annealing.

Our nylons come with our Warp-Free™ Technology. In order for this Warp-Free™ technology to work as it should - we want to make sure the build plate and the ambient air temperatures are both below 50˚C. We then anneal the print after to get it's full strength.

Learn more HERE

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

Yes, you will need a filament dryer when printing with nylons due to them being hygroscopic.

You can find out more about annealing HERE.

Moisture conditioning refers to allowing the print to absorb moisture. This is inevitble since nylons are hygroscopic, but you can expedite the process by keeping the print in a high humidity climate, or submerging them in water, for 48 hours. All of our test specimens were annealed at 100˚C for 16 hours, and then immerged in water at 60˚C for 48 hours. The average moisture content of specimens is 2.57%.

Read more about moisture conditioning HERE.

IWhen you anneal in a convection oven, you will dry the part out. So if you moisture condition before annealing - you will need to moisture condition again after. So we would suggest to moisture condition after annealing.

Our nylons come with our Warp-Free™ Technology. In order for this Warp-Free™ technology to work as it should - we want to make sure the build plate and the ambient air temperatures are both below 50˚C. We then anneal the print after to get it's full strength.

Learn more HERE

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

Yes, you will need a filament dryer when printing with nylons due to them being hygroscopic.

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

PET and PETG differ in their chemical structure, properties, printability, and applications. PETG is more flexible, easier to print, and suitable for 3D printing and medical applications, while PET is more durable and suitable for applications requiring thermal resistance.

The ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) safety of PETG-ESD filament can degrade over time, depending on environmental factors like humidity, temperature, and exposure to dust or contaminants. PETG-ESD filaments contain conductive additives, which can wear off or lose effectiveness due to surface abrasion or environmental wear. Typically, the ESD-safe properties should remain intact for 1-2 years under controlled conditions, but regular testing is recommended to ensure continued ESD performance. Storing parts in a clean, dry environment can help maintain their ESD properties longer.

Yes! We have redesigned the edges of our spools so all Polymaker products will now spin great in the AMS.

That said - you will need to be careful when using any abrasive materials in the AMS.

PET and PETG differ in their chemical structure, properties, printability, and applications. PETG is more flexible, easier to print, and suitable for 3D printing and medical applications, while PET is more durable and suitable for applications requiring thermal resistance.

The surface resistivity is related with the nozzle temperature, as the surface resistivity related with

1. the conductivity of material

2. the adhesion of shell to shell and layer to layer - less space within the shell to shell and layer to layer help to lower surface resistivity

Therefore using higher nozzle temperature helps lower the surface resistivity.